EMBORIOS  for the culture of kasos

Phry is the "capital" of the island and was built around 1830 to house refugees returning to Kasos after the revolution. There is a new port, where the ferries dock and where most of the pleasure boats moore, and there are shops, tavernas and bars. On the western side is an old harbour known as Bouka, which is named after the Italian word for mouth, and which is very colourful when full of the small fishing boats that now use it. There are still a few houses around Bouka and there is the church of Saint Spyridon that is made distinctive by its four semi-circular domes and four story bell tower with clock. Saint Spyridon is the patron saint of Kasos. From Bouka most of the streets head back towards the center of the village. Slightly inland there are more houses, including some old captains' mansions and some traditional Kasiot homes.

Traveling west from Phry, about 3 kilometers, there is the airport and after that there are a few beaches, including Ammoua and Antiperatos. There is also the little church of Agios Costandinos. Further away there are other secluded beaches, such as Fokokamares, but the most beautiful, sandy beach is on the island of Armathia, north west of Phry and about 3km away by boat.

To the east of Phry the coastal road passes by a couple more beaches and the municipal library and then leads, after about half a kilometer, to Emborios Bay. This is the island's old port which was used both for trade and as anchorage for warships. Today is it a small summer village with a pleasant beach, which Taverna Emborios overlooks, and where a few small boats still moore. There is also the church of Panagia which is built where there was once an early Christian basilica. Beside the church there are ancient marble columns and a baptismal font.

Half way between Phry and Emborios is a road that heads up towards the interior of the island. After about half a kilometer it forks east and leads to the village of Panagia. This is a quiet village since many of its residents only come to Kasos during in the summer months. It has its own church of the Panagia with a noteworthy carved wood icon screen and pebble mosaic floor.

Back at the fork in the road, the alternative route goes further inland along a windy road and to the village of Poli, which is about 6 kilometers away from Phry. Before Phry was built Poli was the capital of the island. It stands at an altitude of 220 meters and offers lovely views of Phry and the other villages. It is built upon the site of an ancient town, the existence of which is evidenced by the remains of a wall on the neighbouring hill and the discovery of pots and grave stelae. The village church is that of Agia Triada (the Holy Trinity). The road continues past Poli and heads southeast up into the mountains. After about 2 kilometers it forks. One road leads to the small mountain top church of Agia Kyriaki and the other to the monastery of Agios Mamas. It is Agios Mamas that looks out over the south side of the island contemplating the sea from high up. It also looks out over the "Tris fregates sta Thira", which are three rocks of local significance.

Back in Phry the remaining roads lead south and up. About 4 kilometers away is the village of Agia Marina, which is the largest village on the island. There are in fact four separate roads that lead to Agia Marina: two run along the interior, one passes by the coast and one is from after the airport and comes up into the back of the village. The village spans a large area and its houses often have flower adorned courtyards. It has many small churches but the significant large ones are those of Agia Marina and Stavros. Nearby is the cave of Ellinokamara, noteworthy for both historical and archaeological reasons. In past times the locals sought refuge there during pirate raids and also, as shown by artifacts found in it, it was used as a cult site from the Mycenaean to the Hellenistic age. The entrance is particularly impressive since it is closed by large hewn boulders used in ashlar masonry and has only two openings. About 2 kilometers further, southeast, is a second cave, the Selai cave, which is only of visual interest for its attractive stalactites.

On one of the inland roads there is a fork to the east which leads to Arvanitohori. The literal translation of Arvanitohori is 'Albanian town' and it is where there was once a settlement of Albanians. In this small village is the lovely church of Agios Dimitrios. If you don't take the fork, the same road continues and crosses the Argos site which is in the center of the island and about 10 kilometers from Phry and leads up to the monastery of Agios Giorgios in Xadhies. This monastery is famous for its religious paintings and carved wood icon screen. From here the road continues, ending 2 kilometers later at Xelatros, the southern most point of Kasos, where there is a lovely beach.