Michali and Georgi walk down to the breakwater in Emborios Bay every morning to select the best of the day's catch. Stavris and the other fishermen from Leros and Kalymnos, many of whom live on their boats, go out every evening to set their nets in grounds all round the Kassos archipelago. They come rolling back at daybreak to spend the day sorting the fish, mending the nets and complaining about thieving dolphins and sea turtles. What's in the catch varies depending on the time of year. Grouper is common in the summer months while you have to wait until early December for line-caught squid. But there is also red mullet, "maridhes" (similar to whitebait but slightly larger) wild sea bass, octopus, lobsters and plenty more. Mostly the fish is grilled, although a superbly tasty soup is often made, especially if a large, red and spiny "skorpina" has been brought in. |